Exploring Extremadura
I watched cautiously, suspended in silence, as the newborn calf attempted to wobble to its feet for the very first time. Body quivering, eyes wide, and legs bent into dangerous angles that only the youngest of bones can reach. On this occasion though, it wasn’t meant to be; gravity one, calf nil.
The scene before me wouldn’t have been out of place on a James Herriot set, but far from the flower-rich hay meadows of the Yorkshire Dales, I was in the dehesa (grasslands) of Extremadura – a western part of Spain that borders Andalusia to the south, and Portugal to the west – surrounded by acres of olive and acorn trees, on an Iberian pig farm.
Extremadura is nationally and internationally renowned for its jamón ibérico (Iberian ham) and I’d had my first taste of this delicacy the previous evening. Sat on the restaurant terrace with a glass of red from the nearby Ribera del Guadiana region I watched the burning sun sink beneath the banks of the River Ardilai. Perhaps my judgement was swayed by the idyllic setting, or the wine, but this was by far the best ham I’d ever tasted.
Apparently, the secret to really great jamón lies in diet and exercise: the more acorns and walking, the better. The curing process plays its part too though. In huge rooms filled with salt, the meat is dried several times and finally, sweated in a natural cave. This painstaking process can take up to four years, but the result is definitely worth the effort.
Cuisine in Extremadura stretches far beyond just jamón though, and there’s no better way to explore what’s on offer than with a guided gastro tour of Cáceres. This historic hub is a charming old-fashioned Spanish city where you are still offered a pincho (a small snack) with every drink. It’s a wonder how – with its gorgeous old town, art galleries, museums, bars, restaurants and World of Music, Arts and Dance festival – it has remained relatively under the radar.
If you don’t have the luxury of time to spend a few days seeking out your favourite restaurants, a bespoke gastro tour is a good way sample the best that Cáceres has to offer. On ours, we met José from L&P Travel in the bustling old town who took us to three bars and restaurants throughout the evening. Each offered something entirely different, from the busy open kitchen of Restaurante Cayena, to the modern Mastro Piero Gastro Bar, and – my favourite – the more traditional and almost cavernous cove of Tapería Calenda. Here, we were treated to pork cheek ravioli on mushroom soil, Iberian ham with pea sauce and puff pastry and a wonderful take on miniature fish and chips served on miso sauce with figs – all matched with the finest wines of the region. It’s worth mentioning this company also arrange tailor-made holidays and trips, so whether it’s sport, food, nature, or action adventure you’re after, they can arrange absolutely everything for you.
As well as cuisine, Extremadura is also renowned for its rich history, and marks left by Roman, Arab and Jewish civilizations, among others, can be seen throughout. In Jerez de los Caballeros – most famous for its links to the Knights Templar – there are many Templar and Moorish artefacts. The old town is surrounded by a Moorish wall and the skyline is sprinkled with towers, buildings and churches. Further north, Mérida is home to spectacular historical structures including a Roman amphitheatre, which dates back to 8BC. Here, crowds of up to 14,000 would come to watch gladiators fight to the death against wild beasts and, although there's now only ruins, there’s an ambience that remains. The neighbouring theatre, with its impressive marble pillars, 6,000 capacity semi-circle seating area, and performance stage, has become the most emblematic monument in the city. In the summer – when the stifling heat has subsided – concerts are hosted here, and audiences get to relive a piece of history in the grandstands.
It was here in Mérida that I got my first experience of a Spanish Parador. The Parador hotels offer luxury accommodation in former castles, palaces, convents and other historic buildings. Their unique history makes for a truly special stay and, as well as the perfect combination of tradition, comfort and good service, with a Parador, there is always the addition of stunning surroundings, art and culture. Following a restful night’s sleep and a lavish buffet breakfast at NH Palacio de Oquendo Hotel, we headed east towards Trujillo. Despite being one of Extremadura’s most visited cities it hasn’t lost any of its old-worldy charm. In the distance, views of the castle wall ruins are simply stunning and exploring the winding cobbled streets and various museums is the ideal way to while away a day or two.
A tapas lunch in the beautiful courtyard of Trujillo’s Parador provided the perfect opportunity for reflection. Even after a jam-packed four days I couldn't help but feel I'd barely scratched the surface of this charming region. I sat back and basked in the warming winter sunshine, my thoughts full of delicious wine, jamón and the rustic hills of the dehesa.